Often, we have seen everyone recommending tons of engine, suspension mods to make a car go fast. What do you think is the simplest way to make your car go fast? Pour in your suggestions, what would you do if you were to take the plunge. Forget practicality, think you are building a out and out weekend ONLY car you would love to take to the tracks. You have a decent car that is mod friendly and you have a decent budget to work on as well. How would you proceed?

The cheapest mods that give the most bang for the buck according to me is

1. ECU
2. Full strip & Fibreglass Parts - All four doors, bonnet and boot

Should lose close to 200-220 Kgs.

Should be good enough to keep up with a cammed, FFEd, P&P similar speced car.

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rippergeo

+1 to what harrie said.
Take out everything. The doors, rear seats, ICE,insulation, AC, stepney, carpeting
Add a Tuning box/ECU, and watch all the bling machines suffer
Actually, if I didnt have to cart my family around in the Swift, i'd have done this by now.

God Doc... Without AC in Cochin! Man you have to be the-crazy-kinda-passionate!

Simple way to go fast--- strap on a coupla them rockets, light em up... and ....... well.......... disappear!! (.... no one said nuthin bout wanting to stop!)

Simplest? Nitrous, an ECU and a lightened car. Not that I'd recommend nitrous though, it's the fastest route to a blown engine.

Both of you just stole the words out of my mouth. Best way to go fast is to shed weight. I know this is something not many will stress upon.

Just to show how much of a difference weight makes. I had a small experience today. My brother weighs 50kgs and had a 90kg friend sitting pillion on his Honda Dio. I weigh 75kgs and had another friend who weighs 40kgs sitting pillion on the Bajaj Kristal. Both vehicles have similar bhp & torque figures and nearly weigh the same. But when I took off from the signal the Dio was just left in the dust, when I got half way onto Hebbal flyover the Dio was a good 2 car lengths behind. Then we threw both the pillions out and me and my bro did another run. This time the Dio was keeping up with the Kristal. Why? Because the Dio had to lug 140kgs of weight while the Kristal had to lug just 115kgs in the first turn.

I wish all those who have the intention of building a fast car actually take this route more often and look at it seriously. We have seen too many people blow too much money modding their engines in the hands of tooners. A car that weighs around 100-150kgs lighter than stock form can be as fast as a car with stage 2 mods.

If its a weekend only car, strip it down to the bare. Fibreglass everything and anything you can. Now add more engine mods and watch the fun.

harrie » Sun Feb 07, 2010 8:59 pm wrote:The cheapest mods that give the most bang for the buck according to me is

1. ECU
2. Full strip & Fibreglass Parts - All four doors, bonnet and boot

Should lose close to 200-220 Kgs.

Should be good enough to keep up with a cammed, FFEd, P&P similar speced car.

Harrie, just curious how the "looks" of the car will be after changing all the parts? Will it look close to factory finish? If you have pictures, please do share some?

i would plonk in a V12... ..since you mentioned a decent budget weight loss would be the first step followed by NOS..

kb100 » Sun Feb 07, 2010 8:56 pm wrote:God Doc... Without AC in Cochin! Man you have to be the-crazy-kinda-passionate!

I've stopped using the AC when I travel alone, unless I'm idling at the traffic lights.
I like listening the to the turbo and the exhaust note. cant do that if the windows are up.
Just waiting for that lottery, so that I can buy another daily driver- then the swift will get stripped

BTW, a lighter car will not just go faster, it will also turn and stop better, give better mileage and have lesser wear and tear on the suspension, brakes and drivetrain.

We end up with fat, heavy,slow, cars because we're weak and like our useless luxuries.

harrie » Sun Feb 07, 2010 8:59 pm wrote:The cheapest mods that give the most bang for the buck according to me is

2. Full strip & Fibreglass Parts - All four doors, bonnet and boot

Should lose close to 200-220 Kgs.

Can you please let us know how much would be the incurred cost?

Just imagining if my baleno looses 200kgs

Factory fit fibreglassing with the door and window mechanism functioning doesn't come cheap. 4 doors, bonnet and dicky should cost you anywhere in the region of 20-30k. But what you need to keep in mind is that in case of a crash, you will have no safety at all.

Tadu it'll look the same as stock. The mold for fibreglass is taken off the stock parts.

Rahul, if it's a track only car you could get a roll cage also if you are just bothered about performance why even paint it. You could just get the fibreglass parts and drive around. Will definitely not cost more than 15k.

Ecu - 25000
Rollcage - 15000
Fibreglass - 15000
Race bucket with no padding - 6000
One 5 point harness - 5000

You can run in the saloon car series with this setup. Best bang for the buck IMHO.



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Would The rear hatch backdoor and the bonnet be also done at the above rates?
i.e- 4 doors, bonnet and rear hatch- for 15k? That would be a steal.

I wouldnt mind doing just my bonnet straightaway if thats the case.
I have no plans of changing the front doors though. for whatever its worth, side impact protection offered by the metal doors will be better than fibreglass. but the rear seats and doors are fair game.