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    Thread: Home Audio Build-up

    1. #11

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      I actually had the data sheet for this tweeter in a very old book published by Philips India titled 'Designing Loudspeaker Projects' but I can't find it right now. IIRC, this tweeter had a high resonant frequency and worked well 5Khz and above. So it's definitely not going to sound sweet below that crossover range. But your 10" Tonegon should be able to sing nicely till about 10Khz or so.

      The Yammy A/V receivers are definitely a very neutral sounding range. I also owned an RXV series at some point in time. The only issue I had with them was in high current situations in bass heavy movie soundtracks etc. For mid range and above duties they sparkle.

      have fun with all the configs and do keep us posted.

    2. #12

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      Quote Originally Posted by outofthebox View Post
      I actually had the data sheet for this tweeter in a very old book published by Philips India titled 'Designing Loudspeaker Projects' but I can't find it right now. IIRC, this tweeter had a high resonant frequency and worked well 5Khz and above. So it's definitely not going to sound sweet below that crossover range. But your 10" Tonegon should be able to sing nicely till about 10Khz or so.

      The Yammy A/V receivers are definitely a very neutral sounding range. I also owned an RXV series at some point in time. The only issue I had with them was in high current situations in bass heavy movie soundtracks etc. For mid range and above duties they sparkle.

      have fun with all the configs and do keep us posted.
      Do you think I should give a try on an open baffle design! But to be frank, have never heard any open baffles before.
      ICE, 4-way active - Eclipse CD7200mkii Head Unit, Kenwood KOS-300, Two Pioneer GM-X944 amps, Dayton midbass and wideband, Dayton AMT tweeters, Infinity Kappa sub, Ref. MX cables, entec speaker cables,
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    3. #13

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      Quote Originally Posted by gkannan View Post
      Do you think I should give a try on an open baffle design! But to be frank, have never heard any open baffles before.
      have built a few but personally was never fully satisfied with either in full range duties and had space constraints too. that said, some of the best ideas to try out basic OB designs are on this page:

      Dipole protos

      give it a read. these are all tried & tested designs. i have heard a few of them at DIY meets etc. IMO, definitely worth a shot.

    4. #14
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      To add a little more confusion, how about a horn design with a super tweeter or a transmission line, a full ranger is a good candidate for this design, provided you have a skilled carpenter. BTW, I think a passive setup will be better than an active in this case.
      Last edited by CMS; 10th Sep 2014 at 20:57.

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      I have been designing speaker boxes for donkey's years and have concluded that no material will do for speaker boxes other than cement impregnated particle board. The only down side is that the boxes will be too heavy to carry around. Keep the front baffle thickness at about 1 inch and the other panels at least 3/4 inch thick with internal bracing. Ports are tricky to tune so I suggest to stick with sealed boxes.
      As far as possible keep away from cross overs.
      There is an easy way to tune ports with twin cylinders which I can enumerate if you are hell bent on making ported boxes which I dissuade you to do.

      After about thirty five odd years of experimenting with different configurations I suggest one full range driver with a sub woofer if you must have one. Personally just single drivers for each channel is the most involving of any other combination.
      For the panel:-
      http://www.nclind.com/boards/boards-division.html
      http://www.dattadoor.com/bison-panel...icle-board.php

      For the drive units either one will do depending on your taste:-
      http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1230_04/w8-1808.htm
      http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1230_04/w8-1772.htm

      Start with this combination and go up from here.

      I have spent huge sums of money and time experimenting with various combinations but can vouch for the involving nature of full range drivers in sealed boxes.
      Last edited by drpullockaran; 17th Sep 2014 at 15:38.
      Bye and wear your seat belts.

    6. #16

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      Quote Originally Posted by drpullockaran View Post
      I have been designing speaker boxes for donkey's years and have concluded that no material will do for speaker boxes other than cement impregnated particle board. The only down side is that the boxes will be too heavy to carry around. Keep the front baffle thickness at about 1 inch and the other panels at least 3/4 inch thick with internal bracing. Ports are tricky to tune so I suggest to stick with sealed boxes.
      As far as possible keep away from cross overs.
      There is an easy way to tune ports with twin cylinders which I can enumerate if you are hell bent on making ported boxes which I dissuade you to do.

      After about thirty five odd years of experimenting with different configurations I suggest one full range driver with a sub woofer if you must have one. Personally just single drivers for each channel is the most involving of any other combination.
      For the panel:-
      http://www.nclind.com/boards/boards-division.html
      http://www.dattadoor.com/bison-panel...icle-board.php

      For the drive units either one will do depending on your taste:-
      http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1230_04/w8-1808.htm
      http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1230_04/w8-1772.htm

      Start with this combination and go up from here.

      I have spent huge sums of money and time experimenting with various combinations but can vouch for the involving nature of full range drivers in sealed boxes.
      Sorry for going OT,

      But would be great if you could share some pics (WIP pic would be even better!!), also how easy is it to cut these panels compared to say normal MDF and how is the finish quality? Two more questions , from where did you source the tb (hope from India) and care to explain the two port tuning technique.

      Sorry for asking too many questions

      Cheers,
      Venki

    7. #17
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      Quote Originally Posted by drpullockaran View Post
      I have been designing speaker boxes for donkey's years
      I never knew you were into home audio too Doc. So one more topic added to the agenda when we meet next! ;-)
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    8. #18
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      Quote Originally Posted by venki7744 View Post
      But would be great if you could share some pics (WIP pic would be even better!!), also how easy is it to cut these panels compared to say normal MDF and how is the finish quality?
      I stopped making boxes about 6 years ago due to paucity of time. Managing Orthodontic cases of three hospitals and three clinics has taken its toll. In addition I just happened to be the Principal of a college for the past three years. Will get back to designing when I retire from my present profession. Cutting the panels is easy with the cutting tool but the carpenter will charge you a lot for the diamond tool disc of which he will use one disc for each pair of floor standing speakers. The finish is horrendous and hence you will have to use wood veneer/slivers for the external looks which is available at Edapally junction at I think Jacobs. One active floor stander with a 35-035 volt, 12amp transformer will weigh about 50 to 60 kilos.

      PORT TUNING:- At the next gearheads meet I shall show it to you in person. Explaining it on the net is a bit tough. A hint is that we are to use twin tubes one sliding into the other. The length of the tubes to be 3/4th of the average length of the perfect length of the tuned port. Even card board tubes will do and if not even rigid thick A4 sheet will do. Its done by ear so its a long drawn out process till you get it spot on for that intended room.
      Last edited by drpullockaran; 18th Sep 2014 at 19:15.
      Bye and wear your seat belts.

    9. #19
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      Before we go into experimentation please go through this article. This is the base on which one can build further. http://www.eminence.com/support/unde...dspeaker-data/
      Bye and wear your seat belts.

    10. #20

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      Quote Originally Posted by drpullockaran View Post
      PORT TUNING:- At the next gearheads meet I shall show it to you in person. Explaining it on the net is a bit tough. A hint is that we are to use twin tubes one sliding into the other. The length of the tubes to be 3/4th of the average length of the perfect length of the tuned port. Even card board tubes will do and if not even rigid thick A4 sheet will do. Its done by ear so its a long drawn out process till you get it spot on for that intended room.
      I understand how you are doing it, recently I build a subwoofer (ported) for a GH member and I had tuned it based on the K factor (2.22 as against .732) correction for 3-common wall slotted port. I am yet to measure the resonance Fr created due to the Port though (call it lack of time ). But I believe the this correction has done the trick. However having said that its always a hit and miss thing for ported box. Looking forward to meeting you (even though I am in TVM) please do let me know when you will be there for the next meet, if I am somewhere around I will definitely come to meet you.

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