How to select an aftermarket PERFORMANCE CAMSHAFT.

**Ripper** · 25th Oct 2009, 19:56

Originally Posted by mclaren1885

Cams do make a lot of difference on a FI setup as well. Since this section was the NA modifications section, I stuck to mentioning the NA bit of it only. I think I'll add a few paragraphs about FI cams at the end of my first post in a while.

I'm listening

Originally Posted by mclaren1885

brand new billets are available easily for the D-series Honda's and the G-series Suzi's mainly. For a SOHC setup, a stage 3 cam (with a duration of around 270 deg) should cost you around 25-30k from a good company like Crower. Then you have an option to send out your stock cams to Electra for re-grind for Hondas, Hyundais, Suzis, Mitsu's etc. I think EP charges you around 12-15k depending on the cam and the profile you want.

how much would a brand new stock cam cost?(say- for a suzi)

trying to work out which is cheaper and by how much, buying stock and grinding, or going all out and getting a performance cam.

what about when no performance cams are available? how will we decide what kind of specs to grind the stock one to?
when grinding a stock cam on a modded car that makes more torque/power, will the new camshafts take the strain?

**v1p3r** · 25th Oct 2009, 23:30

Diesel cams are slightly harder to come by, on account of lack of demand. Also, you're going to need a set of 2, for the DDiS.

Rahul, EP used to charge 16 or so for a brand new cam, not a regrind. They were Crow Cams, made in Singapore. Crowers are slightly more expensive, should be over 20 for a Stage 2 Vtec cam. Ritesh should be able to shed light on this.

**Ripper** · 26th Oct 2009, 12:28

the other question is, is there anything to gain by getting a performance cam? My revs max at 5100. I already get decent pull from 1500 to 4500. What can i gain now?
Just thoughts. I'd never even thought of cam mods when i started on the swift.
And i really like low end torque. Can not sacrifice any of it.

**mclaren1885** · 26th Oct 2009, 12:57

Originally Posted by rippergeo

I'm listening

I have added the basic point for selecting a cam for Nitrous, SC & TC in my first post itself.

However, if you want to do some more detailed study, I suggest you read the following thread from the MX6 forums.

http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-submis ... n-faq.html

how much would a brand new stock cam cost?(say- for a suzi)

trying to work out which is cheaper and by how much, buying stock and grinding, or going all out and getting a performance cam.

For a baleno or esteem brand new stock cams cost about 5-6k IIRC. So you can do the math.

what about when no performance cams are available? how will we decide what kind of specs to grind the stock one to?

First degree the stock cam. Say for eg, the stock cam produces a advertised duration of around 226 degrees. You can safely go upto 260deg without increasing compression or doing too many whacky enigne mods etc. Any profile beyond 280 deg, one will have to start keeping an eye. I have heard, you have software simulators that can give you a rough indication of what each mod can do to your car, provided you have all the figures with you. Mohit, should be able to enlighten us a bit more on this bit.

when grinding a stock cam on a modded car that makes more torque/power, will the new camshafts take the strain?

Depends on the "quality" of the re-grind? If done well, it should take up the strain, albeit not beyond certain levels.

Originally Posted by v1p3r

Rahul, EP used to charge 16 or so for a brand new cam, not a regrind. They were Crow Cams, made in Singapore.

Maybe, that is now? Long back I remember they advertising saying either we can send in the cam or they will buy a new cam and regrind it. I think for a Getz it cost totally around 13k, can't remember the exact price, this was nearly 3yrs ago. The cam was about 15 degrees higher duration than stock I guess.

Originally Posted by rippergeo

the other question is, is there anything to gain by getting a performance cam? My revs max at 5100.

Well, a good cam can make you go through the rev band a lot quicker.

**crazydiablo** · 27th Oct 2009, 18:08

You powerband is determined by the CAM. So basically you hvae to select a cam within your engine working rev range (unless you are lifting the limiter).

From a laymans perspective, if we are taling about a performance cam I would ask the following questions:

1. Idle: How will be my idle?
2. What will be my power band?
3. does it need valve train mods?

My engine was designed using a software simulator. It gives us the power and torque curves for each mod u do. Plus each change to the engine you can see hundreds of parameters. Very complex but very useful.

**srijit** · 27th Oct 2009, 22:07

Mmm. Software simulator. That sounds yummy.

Can you share more details, Mohith, or is it hush hush? :silent: :shh:

**crazydiablo** · 29th Oct 2009, 13:13

My engine design details was published sometime back I think. It was done by a simulator by Dr Neels Vanik called Dat4T.

**srijit** · 29th Oct 2009, 18:42

Hmm, must have missed that post. Thanks for the info Mohith.

**The Wolf** · 6th Nov 2009, 18:30

Originally Posted by v1p3r

Diesel cams are slightly harder to come by, on account of lack of demand. Also, you're going to need a set of 2, for the DDiS.

Rahul, EP used to charge 16 or so for a brand new cam, not a regrind. They were Crow Cams, made in Singapore. Crowers are slightly more expensive, should be over 20 for a Stage 2 Vtec cam. Ritesh should be able to shed light on this.

Most import stage 3, stage x, custom grinds cost around 30K in hand. The biggest mistake people make is buy these cams and plonk into their heads which has received a slight port job. Wrong way to go. If you want your engine to survive a stage 3/ race cam set up ensure that a performance valve & valve train is procured as well. This includes stainless steel valves, titanium retainers, high load springs. Without these additions your cam will underperform to start with, then, the rest will start tearing apart. One more tip, every cam has a optimum compression rating associated with it, hence get ready to deck (shaving in millimeters) that head to bring the pistons closer to the spark plug to reduce flame chamber volume or over size your pistons to increase the compression as advised.

Average cost of stage 3 cam + valve train: around 45k in hand (includes shipping, handling, import duties).
Add another 15k head job- head removal, acid wash, hand/ lathe work, performance head gasket, oil change, oil additives etc

Average expenditure on engine for a NA stage 3 mods: around 1.25L which includes clutch assembly, flywheel customization, performance additions like spark plugs, cables etc