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    Thread: How long i can drive with ticking CV axle

    1. #11

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      Ticking driveshafts mean that one or both outer joints are dry. If it clicks when you turn right, the left joint is worn and vice versa. If the inner joints are worn you should feel a vibration when driving straight ahead especially at speeds
      The joint dries out when you get a hole in the rubber boot. You normally only need to dismantle the joint and clean the ball bearings and carrier. Refit and pack with fresh Moly grease and fit a new rubber boot.
      While you are at it you clean and grease the inner joints.
      I did this to my old car. The rubber boot was torn when the clicking started. After a week I replaced the boot and drove another 60,000 km before I scrapped the car.

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      Thx for detailed info. What if it still clicks (on turns, on both sides) even after replacing boot and grease?

      My clicking has not gone even after boot fix. Maybe I drove it long time after boot damage. Is it permanent damage warranting replacement or clicking is not risky?

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    3. #13

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      Quote Originally Posted by techcoze View Post
      Is it permanent damage warranting replacement or clicking is not risky?
      You can keep on driving safely if you can live with the clicking noise but when the clicks turn to give a heavy clunking noise, you must replace it. Sometimes its gets so bad that you can feel the steering wheel twitching. In the worse case you will only be stranded.
      If the roads are dusty you need to fix the rubber boot at once and dont drive the car before that. Where I live it is practically dust free and during the winter months with snow, there is no dust at all.
      I like to keep my car in order and fix even the smallest issue as soon as possible, whatever it is. It might be one rear number plate bulb or parking bulb, whatever.

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      Left turn noise is still 'click' type, maybe a bit louder than 'click'. But right side turn is surely 'clunk' type as you have explained.
      Maybe I can go ahead with replacement of one axle to solve 'clunk' issue / risk.

      It's indeed great habit you have to keep car always in order. To confess... i actually ignored click initially (mainly due to lack of knowledge) which have increased damage. Lesson learned.

    5. #15

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      Quote Originally Posted by techcoze View Post
      By ball joints you mean lower ball joints? That's not issue, changes them recently.
      Correct, I meant the lower ones. Since you have already changed these, then it should definitely be the axles. As suggested by Indian, try to source the just CV joints and not the entire axels which could save you a lot of $$$
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      Quote Originally Posted by Indian View Post
      Very strange as the car dealers sell original CV joints here. Its possible that your car has a locally sourced rebranded driveshaft used by Honda. Just the other day I was reading about the Indian Ford models and how they keep price and quality down in India to be able to sell.
      The Indian made Ford Ka + (Figo) has got different components in suspensions, steering, brakes, shocks and many other parts. My CV joints are almost 15 years old in my high mileage car.
      Even the engine and gearbox mounts and seats are different to bring the car up to 'European standards'. The price of the Ford Ka+ here is about $25,000 US for the base model. Add another $320 for LED headlamps.
      Indian customers are being scammed by the car makers.
      There must be a reason why the warranty period here is 5 years for all cars except Hyundai and KIA which gives a 7 year warranty.
      I completely agree with you.... Indian customers are indeed being scammed by car manufacturers. But With Honda here, I did not have any oem part quality issue. Original parts lasted really long for me, e.g. all engine mounts still stock after 10 years and 1.3 lakh km (maybe that's why their OEM parts are more expensive than other manufacturers).

      With other cars like maruti / tata, its common for major parts like steering rack to fail within few years. I have seen tata car owners banging head on regular brake down of mere 5 year old car.

      Another issue I see here is authorized service center advisor competency. They have been trained to replace whole parts. Many times they don't even know if internal components of a part are available separately. So I keep Honda parts guide with me all time for reference and correct their mistakes . Last time my one service advisor confessed that I have more technical knowledge than him . Where I am not car expert, I just read service and part manuals in advance and research online.

      Latest example... My cabin light plastic lens broke...they said whole assembly need change, cost 4000/- rupees. I just opened my part manuals, gave him lens part number replace. Job done in mere 200/- rupees
      Quote Originally Posted by Indian View Post
      Ticking driveshafts mean that one or both outer joints are dry. If it clicks when you turn right, the left joint is worn and vice versa. If the inner joints are worn you should feel a vibration when driving straight ahead especially at speeds
      The joint dries out when you get a hole in the rubber boot. You normally only need to dismantle the joint and clean the ball bearings and carrier. Refit and pack with fresh Moly grease and fit a new rubber boot.
      While you are at it you clean and grease the inner joints.
      I did this to my old car. The rubber boot was torn when the clicking started. After a week I replaced the boot and drove another 60,000 km before I scrapped the car.

      Sent from Tapatalk

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      update:

      Initially i thought of buying aftermarket axle (GSP brand), but upon purchase I did not really like its quality. By looking at it's build quality could not get confidence on its long term durability. So returned it to seller.
      Yesterday opened axle at FNG to inspect cv damage, both CVs had good amount of play, so yes they are damaged. Since mere CV's are not available with honda service center here, talked with independent axle repair shop. He looked competent and trustworthy. He repaired CV bearings and inner components and replaced boots. Satisfied with its work quality. Now CV not at all clicking / clunking on corners (both sides)
      Total damage: 5000/- for both axles, 800/- mechanic laour

    8. #18

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      Quote Originally Posted by techcoze View Post
      He repaired CV bearings and inner components and replaced boots.
      I have never heard of the inner components of a CV joint being available as spare parts. There are 5 or 6 big ball bearings in a cage inside. The outer housing wears out too so what did he do? Just hope that he did not just add some sawdust and fresh grease to get rid of play.
      This is an old trick they did to the gearbox and final drive before. Below is a birch leaf I found inside the gearbox of my motorcycle. The guy told me that he had just overhauled the box. His overhauling was putting some sawdust inside.

      Click image for larger version. 

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