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    Thread: [DIY] Improve the Bass Punch of Your Subwoofer

    1. #41

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      Great Job Buddy,
      Finally creative gets are new body which it deserves!

    2. #42

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      Quote Originally Posted by toshar View Post
      Are those JBLs just like that or require dedicated Amp to work fine. They get distort on HU but i know distortion has nothing to with volumes just like VLC makes sound rubbish at 200% volume even when speakers volume is 20% only.
      Quote Originally Posted by toshar View Post
      with volumes just like VLC makes sound rubbish at 200% volume even when speakers volume is 20% only.
      Under powered amps will distort the speakers leading to damage of voice coil in the long run. If your speakers are distorting at higher volumes, it means your head unit amp is not able to drive them to full power.
      ICE, 4-way active:Now-------RIP-------- Earlier: (Eclipse CD7200mkii Head Unit, Kenwood KOS-300, Two Pioneer GM-X944 amps, Dayton midbass and wideband, Dayton AMT tweeters, Infinity Kappa sub, Ref. MX cables, entec speaker cables)
      Home Audio: Laptop source, TEAC UD301 dual mono DAC, Adcom dual mono amplifier, Infinity bookshelf speakers and Wharfedale subwoofer

    3. #43

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      Quote Originally Posted by gkannan View Post
      Under powered amps will distort the speakers leading to damage of voice coil in the long run. If your speakers are distorting at higher volumes, it means your head unit amp is not able to drive them to full power.
      Sir, Is there a way to be sure about this.. i mean if one has speakers which doesn't have enough wattage and the amp is too powerful for it.

      In this case also the speakers distort at high volumes or these are two different kinds of distortions. If yes, is there a way we can identify this and get it sorted out before the speakers or amp gets blown off / damaged.
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    4. #44

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      Quote Originally Posted by Queensyrche View Post
      Sir, Is there a way to be sure about this.. i mean if one has speakers which doesn't have enough wattage and the amp is too powerful for it.

      In this case also the speakers distort at high volumes or these are two different kinds of distortions. If yes, is there a way we can identify this and get it sorted out before the speakers or amp gets blown off / damaged.
      Both are true. In general terms, an under-powered amp or an over-powered amp can both harm the speakers. The excess power is dissipated as heat and if that goes in excess it can burn the voice coil.
      An amp can get damaged when it goes into clipping (i.e tried to deliver more power than it is capable of).
      There are several factors like speaker impedance, sensitivity, required max spl level at listening position, program material and more that determine how well an amplifier drives a speaker

      Similarly the amp power will be different for PA/DJ/concert kind of setup than for a home audio setup due to the coverage area and program material.

      A a thumb rule, you can ideally go with 1.5 times to 2 times the RMS rating of the speaker in car or at home. If instead of RMS rating the manufacturer mentions music power or program power, then match that power with the amp.
      Similarly if you speakers have a sensitivity of 90+ (1W/1m), it will be enough if you match the RMS ratings.

      it is usually safer to have a little higher powered amp because music programs usually have varying frequencies and only part surges within the content that most speakers can easily handle even at its full exertion.

      Here is a formula I took from the Crown website.

      dBW = Lreq - Lsens + 20 * Log (D2/Dref) + HR
      W = 10 to the power of (dBW / 10)

      Where:
      Lreq = required SPL at listener
      Lsens = loudspeaker sensitivity (1W/1M)
      D2 = loudspeaker-to-listener distance
      Dref = reference distance
      HR = desired amplifier headroom
      dBW = ratio of power referenced to 1 watt
      W = power required
      ICE, 4-way active:Now-------RIP-------- Earlier: (Eclipse CD7200mkii Head Unit, Kenwood KOS-300, Two Pioneer GM-X944 amps, Dayton midbass and wideband, Dayton AMT tweeters, Infinity Kappa sub, Ref. MX cables, entec speaker cables)
      Home Audio: Laptop source, TEAC UD301 dual mono DAC, Adcom dual mono amplifier, Infinity bookshelf speakers and Wharfedale subwoofer

    5. #45
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      Quote Originally Posted by bhvm View Post
      Great Job Buddy,
      Finally creative gets are new body which it deserves!
      Thank You But That hand made box looks like a joke to me plus it got heavy. Your idea was much much better to make a custom box that only accommodates sub. That will be much handy inside the boot or below seat (5inch sub) still proving Lower frequencies. For now, It is not portable by any means and occupying 40% of the boot area Whereas recently purchased (replacement to creative) F&D A520 weighs fraction and sounds 3 times stronger then the old creative.
      Let it be. I am tired now to do any more DIY. Sir, The inverter in my car is not faulty, you were correct, only the coil type adapters are making problems whereas digital one working fine.


      Quote Originally Posted by gkannan View Post
      Under powered amps will distort the speakers leading to damage of voice coil in the long run. If your speakers are distorting at higher volumes, it means your head unit amp is not able to drive them to full power.
      I never found aftermarket speakers worth (basing combos costing 10-15k with HU). I have listened various 6x9 oval speakers and component speakers of various brands. Most of them were HU powered but never sounded like even a 1.5K iball speakers in terms of quality.
      I was told that 6x9 speakers can create decent amount of bass so i purchased them and get fixed them inside MDF box in boot to save space, mated them with Sony DSX-A100U HU. Result were just and just compromising. I also once installed JBL 1200t bass tube with amp and got headache and vibrating RVM. Bass was clear, little deep, more thumpy and without distortion. I always find 2.1 speakers in a room powered by PC amp, and stock audio systems of polo or i20 better then spending 10 Ks on aftermarket system.
      WHy this all happen sir?

    6. #46

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      1. The handle+wheels idea seems really neat. It will look like a proper PA Protable system!
      Pyle PWMA1090UI Wireless and Portable PA Speaker Sound: Amazon.in: Electronics

      2. For sprucing up the looks, try a matte carbon fibre vinyl wrap from auto decor shops.

      3. VLC makes sound rubbish because its using software amplification by boosting DB. Hardware Amplifications (By Proper PA Amps) will not have such problem.

      4. your IN4007 diodes burned out because perhaps amp is drawing 5A peaks. In that case, you need 10A or 25A rated diodes and add heatsinks on them.

      5. Ah! So now next project is to get F&D into the car? That should be easy by using the inverter.

      6. There are few folks on this planet that like smoother, More Balanced type bass. Whereas 99% (esp teenagers) seem to like Boomy and loose bass that tends to makes everything rattle but has zero intrinsic clarity. Hence Bass tubes sell more than Properly Sealed Woofers (Acoustic suspension)
      Last edited by bhvm; 10th Jul 2017 at 12:57.

    7. #47

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      Quote Originally Posted by gkannan View Post
      Both are true. In general terms, an under-powered amp or an over-powered amp can both harm the speakers. The excess power is dissipated as heat and if that goes in excess it can burn the voice coil.
      An amp can get damaged when it goes into clipping (i.e tried to deliver more power than it is capable of).
      There are several factors like speaker impedance, sensitivity, required max spl level at listening position, program material and more that determine how well an amplifier drives a speaker

      Similarly the amp power will be different for PA/DJ/concert kind of setup than for a home audio setup due to the coverage area and program material.

      A a thumb rule, you can ideally go with 1.5 times to 2 times the RMS rating of the speaker in car or at home. If instead of RMS rating the manufacturer mentions music power or program power, then match that power with the amp.
      Similarly if you speakers have a sensitivity of 90+ (1W/1m), it will be enough if you match the RMS ratings.

      it is usually safer to have a little higher powered amp because music programs usually have varying frequencies and only part surges within the content that most speakers can easily handle even at its full exertion.

      Here is a formula I took from the Crown website.

      dBW = Lreq - Lsens + 20 * Log (D2/Dref) + HR
      W = 10 to the power of (dBW / 10)

      Where:
      Lreq = required SPL at listener
      Lsens = loudspeaker sensitivity (1W/1M)
      D2 = loudspeaker-to-listener distance
      Dref = reference distance
      HR = desired amplifier headroom
      dBW = ratio of power referenced to 1 watt
      W = power required
      Thank you very much Kannan Sir

      It does make a lot of sense. More and detailed info than i ever wished for...thanks again
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      2012 Tvs Wego

      2009 Ford Ikon 1.4 | 2006 Ford Fiesta 1.4 | 2003 Fiat Palio 1.9
      2002 Hero Honda CBZ | 2002 Ford Ikon 1.6 | 1998 Ford Escort 1.8

    8. #48

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      I would say touch your speakers when they are running ( the metallic bits) - I have blown a 30W speaker running on a 40W amp (the cone melted, and then tore and i burned my hand when i touched the centre pole piece)
      even a minor difference is enough- also there was no audible distortion, so I had no clue. Having been "burned" this way, I prefer to err on the side of a lower power amp than a lower rated speaker
      *Now with red horns!

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