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    Thread: Ice tuning - tips and tricks

    1. #21

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      Quote Originally Posted by karanbhatia View Post
      10) No re-adjust the gains to suitable levels. Listen carefully and adjust till the point it starts to sound unbalanced or the speaker seem stressed out. This the point that you should not cross and should ideally be the maximum volume level for you to listen at. You risk damaging the equipment if you go about turning the gains up too merrily. Know your and your equipment's limit.
      One more question on this point. My speaker is rated at 100RMS. My amp is rated at 70RMS @ 12V. Still my installer PZ hasn't chosen 100% gain.He kept it around 65-70%. What could be the reasoning behind it?
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    2. #22
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      Quote Originally Posted by matbhuvi View Post
      One more question on this point. My speaker is rated at 100RMS. My amp is rated at 70RMS @ 12V. Still my installer PZ hasn't chosen 100% gain.He kept it around 65-70%. What could be the reasoning behind it?
      No one would want to have the Gains set at 100%. In case you didnt know, Gain is not in anyway related to RMS of the Amplifier. Also Gain is different from Volume (Although they might seem like a 'similar' when it comes to functional attributes)

      Gain is for adjusting the signal levels at INPUT. It is more like a Volume to the Pre-Amp Section.
      Volume on the other hand is increaing the loudness of signals at the OUTPUT. It is basically the Volume to the Power Amp Section

      More Gains -> More Stronger PreAmp -> Easy life for Power Amps -> More chances of Noise to creep in signal path
      Lower Gains -> Weaker pre Amp -> Power Amps need to push more output for same db -> Less Chances of Noise to creep signal path.

      Parameters that determine Gain setting are;
      > Pre out voltage of HU
      > Power rating of the Amplifier
      > Power Rating of the Load (Speaker / Sub)

      Edit: This is the exact reason why most ICE fanatics are running behind HU with higher preout and Amps that push out more power. Ofcourse there are 100 other parameters that determine quality of music, but these are critical stuff with respect to Gains
      Last edited by Mi10; 14th Dec 2012 at 17:01.
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    3. #23

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      Quote Originally Posted by Mi10 View Post
      Gain is for adjusting the signal levels at INPUT.
      whoah..that changes my understanding completely. Thanks a ton for clarifying. I had some doubts when i saw the gain settings in Celestra is from 0.2V to 6V. Now it makes sense. This also means that 100% gain means bad THD rather than more power for speakers..right? Irrespective of gain, the amp should feed the speakers with same amount of power (on demand). Correct?
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      Quote Originally Posted by matbhuvi View Post
      This also means that 100% gain means bad THD rather than more power for speakers..right? Irrespective of gain, the amp should feed the speakers with same amount of power (on demand). Correct?
      Yeah more than the THD its the SNR that ll take a big hit. Becasue with increase in Signal level, the corresponding Noise level also increase.
      Gain is an attribute that will determine the Maximum Volume (loudness) one can achieve without driving into Clipping.

      A Stronger Pre Amp section (which is the case with most High end HU's) will make any system easier to tune and a much much better system to listen to.
      Last edited by Mi10; 14th Dec 2012 at 17:20.
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    5. #25

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      Got a question on TA. I tried doing the TA based on vocals alone and basically delayed my FR speaker. It feels really nice. But slowly i realized that it is blunting something. Some components of music are not sharp enough. Hard to tell me which part. But, if i turn of the TA, then immediately i realize the increase in sharpness of the music. This is more pronounced in Passive than in Active. But it is there. Anyone else feel so?
      Last edited by matbhuvi; 26th Dec 2012 at 04:38.
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    6. #26
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      Quote Originally Posted by matbhuvi View Post
      Got a question on TA. I tried doing the TA based on vocals alone and basically delayed my FR speaker. It feels really nice. But slowly i realized that it is blunting something. Some components of music are not sharp enough. Hard to tell me which part. But, if i turn of the TA, then immediately i realize the increase in sharpness of the music. This is more pronounced in Passive than in Active. But it is there. Anyone else feel so?
      I feel the exact same thing in Passive setups

      This is because your Mid-Bass and Tweeter are getting delayed or TA'd by the same amount as they are connected to the same XO and getting the same TA'd signal

      They should be done individually as their location and other factors are totally different.

      The best TA result I got in a Passive was with the Alpine Type-X speakers when they were bi-amped and TA was done from the Eclipse CD7200 MKII ( TA was child's play on this one ) which had separate TA values for the tweeter, mid bass as well as individual level control.

      Active will of course let you do the same. Independent control over the Mid-Bass and Tweeter

      Try using the EQ as well post TA.
      It's the best way to dump money and spend an inordinate amount of time...because all debts are paid when the hairs on the back of your neck stand straight up and goosebumps cover your arms, because the sound is SO good. - Scott Buwalda

    7. #27
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      Quote Originally Posted by matbhuvi View Post
      Got a question on TA. I tried doing the TA based on vocals alone and basically delayed my FR speaker.
      Are the delay values for both Mids and Tweets same ? have you also have attenuation apart from delay ?

      Basically all will vary based on their placement with respect to your ears and the power going in.

      Fundamentally TA in BiAmp setup is no different from one in Active setup - You will have control over both the delay (in time or distance) and the attenuation (db)
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    8. #28

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      Quote Originally Posted by Mi10 View Post
      Are the delay values for both Mids and Tweets same ?
      Aagh..you got me there. The R-L and R-R in passive mode is Rear-Left and Rear-Right. I never touched them. But in Active mode, its meaning became High-L and High-R according to the manual. That i believe is for the tweeters.

      Quote Originally Posted by Mi10 View Post
      have you also have attenuation apart from delay
      Nope. CDA-9887 has only the delay (in cm / inch).

      One more question..what's the point in delaying the sub as it is already the farthest speaker from the listening position?
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    9. #29
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      Quote Originally Posted by matbhuvi View Post
      One more question..what's the point in delaying the sub as it is already the farthest speaker from the listening position?
      It affects the Phase of the sub woofer ultimately. So TA for the sub can lead to better integration with the front stage but personally I find that a proper XO selection can get the same level of integration as well.

      A major reason for tuning the LPF from the amplifier as it gives a wider range of frequencies available and the sub can happen to integrate at any of those and not just the standard 63Hz, 80Hz points.
      It's the best way to dump money and spend an inordinate amount of time...because all debts are paid when the hairs on the back of your neck stand straight up and goosebumps cover your arms, because the sound is SO good. - Scott Buwalda

    10. #30

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      Help out
      I have two Amplifiers and two distributor block, a power capacitor and X-overs. I had only one Amplifier first and i had installed that on the rear seat but now i have too many thing and i don't want to drill my whole seat to fit these things, cause the screws come out when bass is high and i don't want to put Amplifier under my seat. Another problem i am having i tried to set my Amplifier gains by DMM, i turned my HU vol to a step down of 75% to its full vol playing a 1khz tone. i was tunning Amplifier for my Speakers. I do have a sub so i put the amp x-over to HPF, and inserted DMM's black terminal to -ve side and red to +ve side of channel one (right), the RMS of one speaker was 100 @ 2ohm so i did 100x2 = 200, then is sqrt = 14.14 so matched the voltage of DMM with amp but when i hooked the speaker back to amp what i heard is one right was playing bit low than left, then i put the terminal to DMM to channel two (left) i saw current coming from that channel is way two much from the right one what might be going wrong. i went to HU setting every effect was off and bal/fad was 0. The amplifier i was tunning was JBL GTO 1004

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