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    Thread: Tata Safari ICEEEEEE

    1. #1

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      Tata Safari ICEEEEEE

      So I have been working on my ICE in the safari for quite some time now and it has gone through several changes and revamps etc but somehow I never posted or documented most of it.

      I will try reconstructing the install in sections. These may not necessarily be in order, but eat post will be a complete unit in itself.

      I would also like to thank gotzuk , Aman Gujral, Jasdeep, Gunbir, Deekshit Bhasin , Mukul Patel ,Subhan, LBM and Saggu for their help both with the install and opinions at various junctures.

      Initial Midbass setup:

      I first started with a pair of jbl comps. I was in musical nirvana.... A few weeks later I met gotzuk at driven and heard his forester. It was then that I realized I was listening to garbage in my car. Called up my friend Aman and he hooked me up with a set of hertz Hi energy series comps. They were definitely an upgrade. The following Summer I was going to the US and went on a mini shopping spree over there. Bought 3 pairs of midbass, a midrange and a tweeter from CDT audio. Also Picked up a couple of amps.

      First off I tried the CDT CL62 as these required the least modifications to fit in the stock location.
      These proved to be a marginal upgrade to the hertz, definitely not worth the change.

      Next I moved to the CDT QES 680 Midbass and CDT ES010 Tweeter. Now this combo I liked and kept for a few months, the mids were strong and the highs were good too.

      The pair of orange ES06+ Golds would look at me daily and say my turn my turn, so i finally decided to break out the jig saw and do some minor cutting to the door cards and install the mids. These midbass did not seem to like being played open baffle in the door as much as the QES 680. Upon checking with CDT they confirmed that they were designed for sealed or ported applications.

      So I reverted back to the QES 680 and asked Mukul if he could make me a midrange and tweeter pod. Mukul and Jasdeep made me a pair of wonderful pods which in itself is a big thing considering the crappy TATA plastic panels they had to work with.

      So with the addition of the pods I was finally running a 3 way active front stage

      After a few months the Upgrade Keeda bit me again and I wanted something new......

      Stay tuned for pictures and updates.....

    2. #2

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      Im sorry this is going to be a very long post, I promise I will keep the rest much shorter. Also this is a 56K no-no.

      So I stumbled across this from Melodic Acoustic on DIYMA.

      Melodic Acoustic
      “Authentic to the Music”
      Intimid8r



      I would like to say Happy New Year to everyone and I truly hope the New Year will grant all of your hopes and dreams, socially, spiritually, financially and may all my Diyma family be granted Sonic Utopia!!!

      True to form the New Year brings with it many great things. First you may ask who and/or what is Melodic Acoustic? Well, Melodic Acoustic is my new company name. We are the imports of Audible Physics, H-Audio and Sinfoni to the U.S. You will see a few drivers under the Melodic Acoustic brand, and yes, Audible Physics is still the main brand name!!!

      So with that out of the way….

      Many have been asking, when I would produce an 8” mid-bass. So without further ado, I would like to introduce you to the first of the Melodic Acoustic transducers, The Intimid8r 8” Woofer (Mid-Bass). The Intimid8r 8” transducer is a woofer in its true form. Designed to reproduce your music as your upstream components render it from 40hz upwards of 1800hz. The Intimid8r uses a rigid, yet light moisture-resistant (treated) Hemp Cone with a solid composition felt dust cap that lends a Deep, natural and accurate woody tone, that is true to the to the source material.

      Couple the rigid and light cone with the large139.7 mm / 38 ounce ceramic motor and 2” Copper voice coil, now add the Pro Audio like sensitivity of 94.3 @ 2.83v/1m and you have a dynamic and accurate transducer with amazing impact, with attack and decay that is second to none.

      True to what I believe in, it is a no bling design. Ok maybe the Hemp cone is a little bling-ish . It uses a Pressed Steel basket with quick disconnect terminals to keep it more affordable. Even with its large motor, the mounting depth comes in at 3.6”, which is average for a driver in its class. With an overall diameter of just 8.24” it can fit many places that some other large format mid-bass transducers cannot, yet it gives up no cone area to any of the competition’s transducers of the same size with larger overall mounting diameters and depths.

      Specifications:

      Recommended usable range: 40hz – 1800hz @ 24dbs

      Power handling without high-pass crossover: 90 watts rms

      Power handling at recommend crossover point: 200 watts rms

      Impedance: 4 ohms

      Re: 3.79 Ohms

      Fs: 58.2Hz

      Le: .74 mh

      Qms: 10.35

      Qes: .53

      Qts: .51

      Linear Xmax: 3mm +/-

      Xmax Mechanical Limit: 6mm +/-

      BL: 7.64

      Sd: 214.1 cm2

      Cms: .335 mm/N

      Mms: 22.4 grams

      Vas: 21.8 Liters

      Sensitivity: 91 (1w/1m)

      Sensitivity2: 94.3 (2.83/1m)

      Coil Diameter: 2”


      Overall Diameter: 8.24” (209.2mm)

      Cutout Diameter: 7.13” (181.1mm)

      Mounting Depth: 3.6” (92mm)

      Net Weight: 6.7 lbs (3kg)
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      HEMP CONE


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      139.7mm / 38 ounce motor:


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      Side View



      I quickly called my friend in the states and asked him if he would be willing to carry them back for me, he said it would cost me... We fixed the shipping price at a round of drinks at Underdogs and I promptly payed Melodic Acoustic the money for the pre order.

      Then my friend tortured me for 3 months by making me wait for him to come back... I tried convincing him to skip the semester but for some reason he thought I was mad..................

      Finally on the 3rd of June my friend came ad this is what he had for me.

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      Attachment 145130

      Attachment 145128

      Attachment 145129

      Time to Fab something up to mount these puppies in the doors.

      Started off by Buying some 12 or 15 mm ( I forget) MS plate and cutting circles out of it using a torch.

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      These are really really heavy.

      Next was time to put these on the lathe machine to convert them into rings. The reason behind MS rings is that the door skin had to be cut, thus weakening the door structurally. The metal rings are molted to the door to help regain the rigidity and strength we lost.

      The not so mild Mild Steel Rings being fabricated:

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      Absolutely Raw ring cut with torch.


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      Machined front face.


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      Ring Machining done, awaiting drilling and tapping.

      Now with the rear reinforcement ring completed, we needed to make some spacers. W contemplated using metal for this too, but quickly decided against it because of the weight that it would add.

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      4 Pieces of 1 inch MDF glued together and put on the lathe for machining.


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      Rings completed.

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      Test fit.

      Now that it fits, we made an mdf baffle to go against the front of the door skin.
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      Back to the MS ring, time for the finishing operations.
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      Ring Drilled and Tapped


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      Just chilling


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      Random shot.


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      Ready for Assembly


      Now it was time to go attack the door and cut away the door skin to make room for the monstrous magnets on the 8 inchers.

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      Jig saw timeeeee


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      The aftermath


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      Time to bolt her up.

      There is a metal ring placed behind the door frame and that ring is tapped. Then the MDF baffle and spacers are placed in front of the door and another metal ring on top. Allen head 85mm long M6 machine bolts were used to hold them all together, so the metal ring in the back and MDF baffle in the front are sandwich the door frame in between them.

      Thats it for now, Stay tuned for more.

    3. #3
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    4. #4

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      Some great work is going on in there..
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      My installs : www.facebook.com/AudioSymPro, www.AudioSymPro.com
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    5. #5

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      Mom always said fiber was very important..........

      It was now time to start fiberglassing the doors, but before we could begin with the fun stuff, we first had to do some ground work and prepare the structure for the glass to lay on.

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      Scrap MDF from a subwoofer cut out will be reused to make some more rings.


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      Rings Being Machined


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      Rings Being Machined


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      Ring with counter sink and ring for grill cloth


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      Test Fit


      Now that we had the rings fabbed up, it was time to do some math and then re do some math. Then once again, time to bring out the trusty Jig Saw!

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      Saggu making a rough cut in the door panel.


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      Rings fastened to the door with the help of screws. We had to sand the plastic and then make a bunch of holes so that the fibreglass resin would stick better. I really Wish we had a wire wheel or something that would have really chewed into the plastic and made it nice and rough for the resin to grab onto.



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      Closeup


      Now traditionally the next step would be skipped and one would move to straight to stretching cloth and fiberglassing. However I was not too happy with the quality of adhesion we were getting so decided to do the fiberglassing in two steps.

      Step 1: Make sure the ring isnt going anywhere

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      Ring being secured to the plastic with fiberglass



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      As strong as it was possible to make it.


      Now I have always wondered why some manufacturers do not give some small but basic features like bottle holders in their cars. The safari is quite a large car but the storage space is very poor. Decided that I wanted a bottle holder.

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      Template for bottle holder made with a bottle and a cardboard sheet to act as a mold. The cardboard was coated with release agent so that we could take it out easily.


      Step 2: Make it look stock.....well try to...


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      Stretching the cloth on the plastic was really hard and took a couple of hours to do. We could just not jet it to stick strongly enough to withstand any pulling and stretching.
      We finally resorted to using a mix of sanded plastic, resin, elfy and fevi quik to get the cloth to stick


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      Cloth finally stuck and now coated with resin and elfy to make it hard.


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      Fiber glass layup around the ring



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      Done for now, now time to dry



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      Drying




      Next update: Sand, paint and install!!!!!!!
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    6. #6
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      RodeoSport update the thread bro
      Failure is not an option. It is a privilege reserved only for those who try.
      The bottom line is that car audio is a compromise, and you have to decide what deficiencies you are willing to accept prior to delving into it. If you don't, you could end up spending lots of money and time swapping gear, only to find that it was all a waste to begin with.

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