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    Thread: DIY - Linea T-Jet Rear discs and brake pad replacement

    1. #1
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      DIY - Linea T-Jet Rear discs and brake pad replacement

      On 15th of July, five of us embarked on a pilgrimage to Sabarimala, a temple in Kerala - 680 kms drive from Bangalore. I had got the wheels balanced and aligned only the week before and while I did notice that the rear brake pads were rather thin, I felt that they can last another 2000 kms at least. Wrong judgement. 100 kms into the journey, we noticed a grinding noise from the rear right wheel. I checked it and strangely decided it is due to low air pressure, pulled out the air-pump and pumped up the pressure and continued on the journey. 400 kms into the journey, the noise was getting louder and started appearing when ever I touched the brake. By the time I realized that it was due to a worn out brake pad, we were already deep in the forest area and the nearest reliable service centre was more than 200 kms away. So, I decided to continue on the journey. Once we reached the temple and came back to the car, it was decision time.


      1. Drive down to Kottayam ~200 kms and get the brakes fixed at a not so reliable service centre
      2. Drive down to Salem ~ 450 kms and get the brakes fixed at a reliable service centre
      3. Drive down to Bangalore and get it fixed there

      Since I did not feel any deterioration in the braking performance and since a friend travelling with me wanted to take the afternoon train to travel to his place, I decided to drive down straight back to Bangalore, ignoring the grinding noise from the rear wheel. Big mistake. Though we made it back to Bangalore without any issues, by the time I got home, I was left with this







      There was nothing left of the rear right outside pad and metal-to-metal grinding for hundreds of kilometres had also scratched the rotor badly. Costly mistake. So, I decided to replace both rear rotors and pads. Why replace the rear left rotor, which was still in a good shape, you may wonder. It is always a good practice to replace brake components of the same axle at a time and it is not recommended to replace just one side.


      A trip down to the nearest FASS and got these. I was poorer by ₹ 10,292. The FASS charged me a 2% service charge for payment by card, which is against RBI regulations, but let me not digress


      Now that I have the replacement parts, let me get started with the actual process, without any more rants. Here is what you will need :

      Parts

      • Rear rotors for Linea T-Jet 2 numbers
      • Rear brake pads - 4 numbers
      • Dot 4 Brake Fluid - 500 ml can


      Tools


      • 13 mm wrench
      • 17 mm wrench
      • 10 mm wrench
      • 7 mm wrench
      • Small piece of plastic tubing 8 mm dia
      • Old transparent plastic bottle
      • Jack Stands

      Process

      Park the car on a level surface, put choking blocks under the front wheels, engage first gear, disengage hand brakes. Now loosen the wheel bolts, just a quarter turn, jack the car up and support with jack-stands. The supplied jack alone in never enough to work on the car. Please don't do it. Once supported by jack stands, remove the wheels on both sides completely


      There are two parts that we need to remove - the callipers and the pad holders. First, locate the bleed valve, usually covered with a small rubber cap, loosen it a bit and then snug it back. This will help later, as you will see. The callipers are held by two 13mm bolts. Loosen both of them first and then undo completely. Now you should be able to take the callipers out and move them out of the way
      Once this is done, the old brake pads can be slid out. The pad holder itself is held by two 17 mm bolts. loosen them and unscrew completely. Now you should be able to take the whole unit out of the car.
      Notice the pad on one side is worn much more than the other. That indicates either a stuck calliper pin or a bad piston.


      The rotor itself is held in place by two locating pins. Undo them and the rotor should just come out. If these is a lot of rust, the rotor might be stuck and will require a few taps with a hammer to loosen it, but in my case, it just popped right out
      Now replace with the new rotor - clean first with a grease removal agent - and put the locating pins back. The new pads come with new clips to hold the pads in place and new bolts for the callipers. Do not reuse the old 13 mm bolts we removed. The clips are snap on.


      There are two calliper pins. Remove them, clean and lubricate with brake grease and refit. Make sure the slide in and out easily. Now fit the pad holder in place, reuse the old 17 mm bolts and tighten them. Make sure the new pads are sitting in place properly. Now there is something that we need to do, before we can fit the callipers back. The callipers are equipped with a self adjusting piston, which will be protruding out, as the old pads were far thinner. So we need to push the piston back in. We are working on the rear axle, which also has the parking brakes. In some cars, there is an independent drum brake mechanism, inside the discs and in some cars, like the Linea T-Jet, the parking brakes use a ratchet mechanism to push the piston out and keep the brakes engaged. So, these pistons cannot be just pushed in, but will have to be rotated while being pushed in. When we are pushing the piston in, we are trying to push the brake fluid back into the master cylinder and will be faced with a lot of resistance. So, we will need to crack open the bleed valve, attach the plastic pipe to the nozzle and drain the fluid into a bottle. If we already cracked the valve open and snugged it back up, it will be far easier now, as we have the calliper hanging there, unsupported.


      That is the piston screwed back in, all the way. The nipple you see in the bottom right is the bleed valve. Never pump the brake pedal, with the callipers detached. The pistons will pop out and can be a pain to put back again. Once you have the pistons retracted all the way, fit the calliper back, using the new bolts that came in the pack.


      Once you have fitted both sides, replace brake fluid and bleed the lines to remove any trapped air bubbles. Fit the tyres back and take a drive around the block to ensure that brakes are working fine. Find an empty stretch and try a couple of panic braking manoeuvres, just to ensure that you have optimal braking performance.


      That is it, you can drive safely for the next 25,000 to 30,000 kms, knowing that you can stop safely, when you need to.


      Thanks for reading.


      Rajan
      Last edited by Rengarajan B; 20th Jul 2014 at 20:33.

    2. #2

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      Quote Originally Posted by Rengarajan B View Post
      Wrong judgement. 100 kms into the journey, we noticed a grinding noise from the rear right wheel.
      From the time you heard the grinding noise, the rotors were shot so you did not do more damage by driving home. I am puzzled how you could see that there was 2000 km left on the worn pads. Pads should be changed when there is at least 2 mm of padding left on them. When the linings get so thin, they will just loosen and the metal to metal contact will damage the rotor.

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      Quote Originally Posted by Indian View Post
      I am puzzled how you could see that there was 2000 km left on the worn pads.
      I confess. I got into the pit at the WA centre, had a look at the inside pad and assumed at least 2000 kms more. Now I know to check both pads and not assume that both will wear evenly. Since I have steel rims, the outside pad is not easily visible

      Rajan

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      Quote Originally Posted by Rengarajan B View Post
      DIY - Linea T-Jet Rear discs and brake pad replacement
      Nice job well done.

      I too wanted to do some DIY, wanted to start with oil change but fear of damaging something I am not venturing into. When I get confidence I would probably do.

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