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    Thread: Daewoo matiz SE, 1999: My wonder car (Mysterious coolant loss!!!)

    1. #21

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      Update on the thread....about six months of regular use...the car gave trouble free service. In the mean time I decided to carry out certain preventive maintenance. Which include following-
      1. Change the lower control arms.
      2. Replace front suspension bushes.
      3. Replace inner and out tie rods.
      4. Replace clutch plate, pressure plate and CRB.
      5. Overhaul steering rack.
      6. Overhauling the front brakes.

      The idea was to make the car pleasure to drive once again, so finally decided to do it at home. The idea was to do it the way it is supposed to be done as per Work Shop Manual. Everything went smoothly and did all the jobs as planned(will post the WIP pics shortly). However had to bring down the clutch assembly again as the clutch was slipping slightly during test drive yesterday.I was very happy with the job done.....theres such a huge difference in car smoothness, tightness, the way the steering is working. I decided to open the clutch to look at the slipping issue and on opening the clutch I found that the pressure plate had some old traces of oil( I had sprayed WD-40 before storing it) which had come off due to spinning. There's a saying what ever happens, happens for good, today after cleaning all clutch parts with brake cleaner spray just before installing the clutch I saw some rusted portion behind the fly wheel. So I decided not to install the clutch as this coolant block off plate will sooner or later fail and have to do the repair again.
      HERE'S THE PIC OF RUSTED PLATE
      Click image for larger version. 

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      THIS IS HOW IT LOOKS LIKE IN A NEW BLOCK
      Click image for larger version. 

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      Now the question is- What should I do to repair this as getting a new plate will be next to impossible. Moreover opening the rusted bolts will be some task if not impossible. Also I will have to remove the flywheel to get full access to this plate. Any suggestions or advice are most welcome.

    2. #22

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      Quote Originally Posted by vehfreak View Post
      as getting a new plate will be next to impossible.
      that leaves with only two other options - search a donor car/engine or get the plate fabricated [which might be difficult].

      kudos to your perseverance in keeping the Matiz running in good condition.
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    3. #23

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      vehfreak
      my Opinion will be to let the sleeping dogs lie.
      Opening such rusty pieces will be like a can of worms. Many cascading issue.

      Give this part a heavy dose of rust converter and then paint it with Engine/ Exhaust paint. Good 5~6 thin coats. Then keep searching for donor engine.

    4. #24

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      Quote Originally Posted by bhvm View Post
      such rusty pieces will be like a can of worms. Many cascading issue.
      Absolutely true....but my situation is like can't leave it as the plate has been rusted from inside out. No matter what I apply on top it will still leak and then have to open it again. So as of now hunting for donor car or spare. Difficult to find donor Matiz also!!! However one shop keeper has assured me to get a new plate by tomorrow but he's hinting at charging a bomb. Waiting till tomorrow if I get the plate then nothing like it. In the mean time today I got original Daewoo's Engine Rear oil seal...so will replace that also. I also spoke to an old timer mechanic....he also suggested not to touch it...and make paste of Araldite and M Seal....and apply. Second option he said to remove it and get the place soldered(don't know how solder can stick to cast Iron block?)
      Another issue bothering me is how to unscrew the four screws? They are badly rusted...for which this mechanic said not to try open it normally but heat the screws and use punch and flat chisel. So once I get the plate in hand then only I will touch the rusted plate .

    5. #25

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      But one thing I just failed to understand the purpose of this cavity. Why is it required? Searched the net but didn't get any clue. Perhaps its required for the manufacturing reasons. Any one have any idea about it?

    6. #26

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      What is inside the cavity? If you open it will oil/ coolant fall out?
      If nothing falls out, leave it as is.

      BTW do not use Araldite, M seal in Engine (or Generally in any critical area). It will turn hard & Brittle, eventually flaking off and landing onto more critical components.

    7. #27

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      Quote Originally Posted by bhvm View Post
      What is inside the cavity?
      coolant. had it been nothing inside... I would have been very happy!!
      Quote Originally Posted by bhvm View Post
      do not use Araldite, M seal in Engine
      They are ok for certain stop gap arrangement but not in long run. I also believe in doing the thing right time, first time

    8. #28

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      Do test the engine esp coolant for Electrical leakage..this can cause galvanic corrosion. Like electrolysis and starts eating engine from inside. There are videos on YouTube how to check it with a multimeter.

    9. #29

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      yeah checked that, nice input. the rusting problem happened due to coolant loss regularly with no trace hence I had to use water which rusted the plate. Did some research...and found that Maruti 800 has the same part, it's called CYLINDER PLATE. Been to MGP and they don't have it in stock. There's one quantity lying in some locality near Pune and they demanded it. Hopefully I should get it by today. I have asked for Gasket, Screws and Plate. The plate is so badly rusted that I am worried about opening the screws. Spoke with a few known mechanics...told to open only by heating. I just hope the heat doesn't damage some rubber parts or gasket inside. Let's hope for the best. Will try opening once I get the plate in hand.

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