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    Thread: Daewoo matiz SE, 1999: My wonder car (Mysterious coolant loss!!!)

    1. #1

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      Daewoo matiz SE, 1999: My wonder car (Mysterious coolant loss!!!)

      I own a Daewoo Matiz SE, 1999 which I bought second hand in the year 2012. Since then It has given me trouble free service and by now I do all maintenance and repair work at home. This car is primarily being used in the family by my wife and sometimes by my son. The car has covered 73000 kms till now of which 36000 kms were done by the previous owner, a few days ago the car overheated twice in the span of 2 days, luckily both the times I was driving and I noticed the temprature guage needle rising and stopped the car, poured water in surge tank after cooling down and reached home. I decided to do the repair works my self.On checking I found the coolant leakage in the Inlet Manifold which is a known issue in Matiz. On finding the leak I decided to block the coolant cavity by cutting the Inlet manifold in two and fixing a blanking plate. In addition I also planned to replace the Timing Belt and Tensioner. I already had these spares at home which I bought it earlier. Next day I started opening the parts one by one and removed the Inlet manifold which was earlier repaired in 2012. Then the mechanic had done a very shoddy work and since then I decided to look after the car my self.

      The parts opened up easily as I used liberal spraying of WD 40 and having right tools. All the removed parts were nicely cleaned and kept aside, I also removed the cooling fan, radiator, all hoses, elbow (old one was in bad shape and required a change), thermostat, surge tank and distributor. I also opened up the timing belt, tensioner and water pump(I found a leak in water pump too). These removed parts gave space to clean the engine and the parts nicely which no mechanic does.

      The aluminium blanking plate was fabricated from a piece at home and new gasket was fitted in the manifold and refitted. timing belt, tensioner and the water pump were replaced with the new ones and fitted back nicely. The radiator was cleaned externally with detergent and brush and internally with running water of garden hose, surge tank was cleaned with a contraption made at home but could not clean it 100%. Complete engine was also cleaned.

      All the required parts at this stage were refitted one by one without any difficulty and issue. After fitting the essential parts I just cranked the engine to see its functioning and it started with very short crank and very sweet note, I immediately switched it off and refitted the remaining parts and poured the distilled water and some old coolant and tested the engine by running and heating it up till the time the fan kicked in. Wow....no leakage at all. Sound was amazingly silent and sweet. I was too happy to see the engine breathing again. Took the car for test drive of about 10 kms...everything as per the manual and car was really pulling very well. I was surprised at the power and pick up as it was reaching 80 kmph effortlessly.

      WIP PICS

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ID:	233725The lower portion of Manifold is almost missing.

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ID:	233726 Badly corroded Elbow which was replaced with a new one.

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ID:	233727 Throttle Body Inlet and Outlet ...it was clogged and no flow of coolant at all.

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ID:	233732 This is what came out of the throttle body inlet and outlet (blocked it actually)

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ID:	233728 Removed parts

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ID:	233729 Removed Radiator and fan

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ID:	233730 This is what came out of radiator(perhaps old RTV used by the mechanic to stop the manifold leak)

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ID:	233731 New Manifold Gasket

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ID:	233733 Cleaning of Manifold with K oil and petrol mixture and subsequently used Carb Cleaner.

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ID:	233734 Cutting the manifold and separating the problematic part for good.

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ID:	233735 Fabricated Aluminium blanking plate.

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ID:	233736 fitted aluminium plate with the old portion on top to keep adequate pressure.

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ID:	233737 IAC was also cleaned.

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ID:	233738 Cleaned Engine Coolant Temp and coolant temp sensor.

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ID:	233739 New Elbow fitted
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ID:	233740 New Water Pump fitted.

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ID:	233741 Old Water pump- note the badly pitted wall responsible for leak, other wise a perfectly ok water pump.

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ID:	233742 Old Timing Belt setup.

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ID:	233743 New timing Belt.

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ID:	233744 New Tensioner.

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ID:	233745 Adjusting the Cam Shaft Sprocket with the mark.
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ID:	233746 New Timing Belt setup

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ID:	233747 Testing the Thermostat

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ID:	233748 Matching the Timing with MARK on Oil Pump Case and Crank Shaft Sprocket.

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ID:	233749 New water Pump working fine.



      Next day finding everything in order and no drop in coolant level, I flushed the cooling system. Drained the old coolant and flush. Poured new coolant and distilled water while the engine was running. Everything was satisfactory and job well done. i was happy to see doing a big task all by own. I drove the car for few kms that day, and next day I found drop in coolant, I thought its because of engine burping and added some coolant. in the evening again I found drop in coolant level which surprised me. I checked all the hoses, all possible places as per book, as per you tube, as per knowledge and couldn't find any traces of coolant. I again added some coolant and test drove it for some 15 kms...after reaching home I found good amount of coolant level decrease and again I could not trace any leak what so ever even with the engine running at high RPM. I gave up as it was night.

      Next day morning I again checked no trace any where, again went under the car and this time I found residue of coolant on the undercarriage of the engine, which is exactly below the point where engine block is mated with clutch housing. Here are the pics of leak-

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      Am absolutely out of ideas and know how as to how coolant is oozing from there. I wiped it clean, test drove the car and again the coolant traces appear, its confirmed now that there is a leak...but from where is absolutely no clue. The head gasket seems to be ok as oil is perfect, no mixing of oil in coolant, no missing, no overheating.

      One thing which comes to my mind is rusting and damaging of antifreeze plugs which might have resulted in leaking of coolant post radiator flush. But I could not find out if Matiz has antifreeze plugs or not, if it has then where are they located?

      Any help will be appreciated. I dont want to take it to any mechanic who has no clue about Matiz as I have seen good running cars getting scrapped due to ignorance of mechanic in setting the things the way they are suppose to be.
      Regards

    2. #2
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      rksingh1's Avatar
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      I am clueless too. I did a quick Google search - seems like a known issue like you've said. Check this link out if you've not done already : Fix Coolant Leaks: 1998-2005 Daewoo Matiz - 2001 Daewoo Matiz SE 0.8L 3 Cyl.

    3. #3

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      Quote Originally Posted by rksingh1 View Post
      I am clueless too. I did a quick Google search - seems like a known issue like you've said. Check this link out if you've not done already : Fix Coolant Leaks: 1998-2005 Daewoo Matiz - 2001 Daewoo Matiz SE 0.8L 3 Cyl.
      Yeah....I am aware about this and also fixed it by blanking the coolant cavity. It's making me go nuts now!!

      Sent from my Lenovo K8 Note using Tapatalk

    4. #4

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      Quote Originally Posted by vehfreak View Post
      I could not find out if Matiz has antifreeze plugs or not, if it has then where are they located?
      You will find these plugs on the side of the engine block. Should be about 3 cm in diameter. On my car I have 5 in front. There should be a few on the rear of the block. These are pressed into the block and should not leak. Once removed, they must be renewed.
      Have you checked for cracks in the block? Try putting a can of radiator seal and see if that helps. Then you will see traces of the compound where it leaks. Bar Leaks is a good one.
      Here is a frost plug in a VW engine.

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      Last edited by Indian; 25th Nov 2018 at 23:28.

    5. #5

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      Quote Originally Posted by Indian View Post
      ou will find these plugs on the side of the engine block.
      yeah ...I found 2 in front which are easily visible and 2 at rear they are fine.
      Quote Originally Posted by Indian View Post
      Then you will see traces of the compound where it leaks.
      Unfortunately the leak is from somewhere within i.e between the block and clutch housing, so have to open up the clutch housing today to find what it is. As precautionary measure not using the car.
      have found a pic on internet which shows a plate, just above the clutch, bolted on to the block- what is it?Name:  Engine-block-Crankshaft-Piston-Pleuel-Chevrolet-Daewoo-Matiz.jpg
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    6. #6

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      Quote Originally Posted by vehfreak View Post
      have found a pic on internet which shows a plate, just above the clutch, bolted on to the block- what is it?
      The seal behind this plate could be your problem. It is right behind the water jacket. There should be an O-ring behind. Replace that and don't use sealing compounds. Just a few drops of oil will do. Don't over tighten

      - - - Updated - - -

    7. #7

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      Quote Originally Posted by Indian View Post
      The seal behind this plate could be your problem. It is right behind the water jacket. There should be an O-ring behind. Replace that and don't use sealing compounds. Just a few drops of oil will do. Don't over tighten

      - - - Updated - - -
      Finally took car to a local mechanic called Chand Bhai....an aged fellow...very honest man...treat to see him work...no hurry..not a money seeker....does work on such old cars only.
      He has confirmed it's a core plug leak...he is sourcing the plugs....and asked me to come when he calls. Ppl have to take appointment for their cars. Nice to have e found him..and he is near my house.
      Will update.

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      So far...no progress, as Chand Bhai is banging his head with a Fiat PP....and M800 (old model)...he is feeling sorry for not able to attend me....am also waiting for him to give me an appointment. On the other hand was thinking...what big deal....why cant I open it? but then it makes a difference doing it in middle of market(lathe job, weld job, soldering job etc etc) also I want him to adjust my cars tappets which I feel requires adjustment post change of timing belt...which I feel was out earlier as car is running much smoother and peppier now.

    9. #9

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      Awesome work on the rescue of old beast.
      Parts are very badly corroded. Was previous owner running it on tap water? Seems so.
      Also, RTV work is what accelerated problems.

      Good going. Thread subscribed!

    10. #10

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      Quote Originally Posted by bhvm View Post
      Was previous owner running it on tap water?
      yeah...unfortunately the car was standing for 3 years before I bought it in 2012, since then with each little job done by me is making it run more better. Even today it touches 150 kmph, earlier it use to struggle crossing 100 kmph.
      Quote Originally Posted by bhvm View Post
      RTV work is what accelerated problems.
      Its the slow poison for the car if used in excess specially any where in or on cooling system.
      Quote Originally Posted by bhvm View Post
      Awesome work on the rescue of old beast.
      Thanks a ton...in next phase I will carry out following jobs:
      1. replace clutch set with CRB
      2. adjust tappet clearance.
      3. replace middle and rear exhaust assemblies
      4. replace front brake rotor with brake pads.
      5. change gear oil.
      Quote Originally Posted by bhvm View Post
      Thread subscribed!
      ...Gives boost to my moral.

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