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    Thread: My 124 Rebuild

    1. #91
       
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      MechaniX's Avatar
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      Back to Cabin

      I had Kenwood KVT-614 with separate BT, navigation and reverse camera module for almost 9 years. It did work well(except for navigation) even though passenger footwell was filled with these modules. I wanted to upgrade to something that supported CarPlay + Android Auto and had to be single din 7" screen like KVT. Finalized on Pioneer AVH-3300NEX 7", by the time I ordered it was updated to 3400NEX. Only thing I miss is KVT had separate Antenna trigger, which was live only when radio was selected, in 3400NEX you need to use Amp trigger which is always on.

      Plan
      • Make harness changes for 3400NEX
      • Wire Dashcam
      • Wire Reverse camera
      • Wire Speakers, Amplifier and Subwoofer.
      • Make harness for Noco in car charging (Newer cars can be charged via OBD port).
      • Test all the setup, finalize wire routing and then start building interior.

      Routed power for Amp & Woofer on left and rest of the stuff on the right side of the chassis, everything worked smoothly.

      3400NEX Harness on right & Amp power cable.

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      Amp & Speaker wiring, rear speaker ready for test.

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      Dash temp fix, wiring ready for testing

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      If it Ain't Broke...Break It! Make It Better!

    2. #92
       
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      Doors

      Putting door stuff together was considerable amount of work. I Installed most of the components with door hung on the wall, it was convenient. Called in Ravi and team for a day to assist me in mounting and alignment of doors, hood and trunk lid was also mounted on same day.

      Plan
      • Clean, lube and replace worn out bushes in window regulator assembly.
      • Clean window glasses and removing deposits over the years.
      • Clean all seals and replace worn out stuff (this was done @ removal stage).
      • Clean and lube all handles, locks, actuators and vacuum pods.
      • Replace stock sound deadener with Tecsound stuff (Covering 60-70% more area).
      • Wiring for regulators, switches, puddle light, window mirror etc.
      • Fit everything, mount the doors and align
      • Install door latch, verify window operation, center locking and convenience features.
      • Used MTB chain wax for all lubing.


      Door components installation in progress

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      Front and Rear doors mounted, kept doors external packed to avoid any paint damage.

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      Hood mounted

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      Last edited by MechaniX; 7th Aug 2019 at 16:15.
      If it Ain't Broke...Break It! Make It Better!

    3. #93
       
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      Year End - Final Push

      Now it was last week of December, I was working non stop to get this thing done. It was great relief to finally sit on driver seat and have a look around, started the car and moved it front and back within the garage for my satisfaction.

      Dash and Base Carpet in

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      Passenger and Driver footwell
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      Captain Seat in

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      Driver Seat in. After installation of driver seat it was time to check AirBag system, re-verified air-bag and pretensioner connections and connected the airbag module, self test went fine and everything looked good.

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      Back to Page One ?
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      If it Ain't Broke...Break It! Make It Better!

    4. #94

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      There are Like-new vehicles. Then there are Brand new vehicles.
      But you seem to have one which is better than new.

    5. #95
       
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      Small Break

      New year and I had some work to finish in BLR, there were some parts on back order too, so planned to take and break and return back @ end of January. This would also give sometime for paint to cure before I start polishing. I am back in my home town this week, will update once I am back in BLR.

      Till then here is a dash-cam video, it was same time last year, 124 was on flat bed, now back on same road facing rain's fury.



      Everytime I think of swapping to sport-line setup to lower the car, I just remind myself about roads and conditions.
      Last edited by MechaniX; 10th Aug 2019 at 18:40.
      If it Ain't Broke...Break It! Make It Better!

    6. #96
       
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      Rub It I Say

      At end of Jan all pendning parts and material for polishing was in, so it was time to finish. Like painting I had no knowledge on polishing, never polished my car or bike. Did quick research and choose below items for finishing work. In terms of material I skipped Extra Fine stage (3M 80349 Perfect-it III Extra Fine PLUS).

      Materials
      • 3M Normal P1200 & P2000 wet stand paper.
      • 3M Trizact 6" P3000
      • 3M Trizact 9" strip P5000, for hand finishing non reachable areas.
      • 3M 51052 Perfect-it III Fast Cut XL, See 51052
      • 3M 50383 Perfect-it III Ultrafina SE, See 50383
      • Perfect-it III Compounding Pad 50487 & 50499 - Green 150mm & 75mm
      • Perfect-it III High Gloss Polishing Pad 50388 & 50457 - Blue 150mm & 75mm, See Colour Code System
      • Dino KRAFTPAKET Eccentric polishing machine, See KRAFTPAKET
      • Different color microfiber cloth pieces.


      Below is 3M video that gives an overview of overall process



      First thing to check was how polisher worked, so planed to try it on hood with 3M 51052. I was feeling rusty getting back to work after the break. Planed to try polishing without any sanding, cleaned up the surface, inspected with light, set the polisher RPM to lowest recommended in 51052 TDS and did couple of runs splitting the hood into 4 areas, I was like that's all ? till I used inspection light

      First Polishing Run

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      If it Ain't Broke...Break It! Make It Better!

    7. #97
       
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      Rubbing it in ?

      Polishing Plan
      • Wet sand clear coat flat with P2000 (P1200 & P2000 in areas where orange peal is more pronounced).
      • Trizact P3000 to remove any P2000 scratches.
      • 3M 51052 compounding.
      • 3M 50383 polishing.


      3M Trizact is good wet sanding abrasive but expensive, I would have preferred it from pre base-coat stage(if planned carefully). 3M 51052 claims to remove P1200+ scratches, but it takes lot of time & pads, you need to make your formula for time v/s money (i.e, Trizact or 51052 & Pad). Using Trizact will reduce compounding time and give better and consistent scratch removal. 51052 works well after P3000 and you probably could do with one pad per car. I started with roof, hood, trunk, shell and doors in that order

      Goof-up
      I had limited time before I had get back to BLR and I was running marathon polishing runs, after lot of hard work finally compounding was done. Compounding was so boring, only thing that didn't make me fall asleep was rock driller like vibration from polishing machine. Even though I was particular about masking and polishing machine RPM, I let my guard down didn't mask the door lines and ran polishing machine @ 4500 for doors and inevitable happened. On final inspection with inspection light, found 2 instances where I had hit base-coast, it was really small 3-4mm long and 1mm wide, yeah FML. I had still polishing to be done and not opened 50383 yet.

      I did not take much pictures at this stage.

      Roof

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      Body

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      Sanded Side Cladding ready for compounding.

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      Last edited by MechaniX; 14th Aug 2019 at 16:14.
      If it Ain't Broke...Break It! Make It Better!

    8. #98
       
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      Bumpers & Fenders

      While thinking on how to fix the clear scratch, I thought of getting the rest of the stuff like bumper & fender trims ready for assembly. Both my front and rear bumpers were damaged and I had planned to replace them. I had ordered font bumper(Taiwan make) few years back expecting replacement when there was skirt damage when I hit a curb. These bumper plastic quality is good and comparable to stock, but what they lack is internal hardware like crash absorb-er hard-foam which can be swapped from stock bumper or new OE part. I ordered these crash absorb-er & other hardware pieces for both front & back and rebuilt Taiwan bumpers to stock spec except for plastic. For some reason front bumper had color difference between center strip and rest, even though whole bumper was painted at one go. I sanded the side areas that had violet tinge and re-shot base-coat and cleared whole bumper gain.

      Front bumper color issue

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      Front bumper after re-shoot

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      Crash absorb-er replacement, extreme left piece is installed wrong in this picture

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      Bumper mount, Crash absorb-er part and new chrome garnish holder clips

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      If it Ain't Broke...Break It! Make It Better!

    9. #99
       
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      Back to the Front

      Did I hear "Make It Better" ? . Ok the plan, I had enough clear to belt the car again, so fix the scratches(there was one on each fender edges as well) and go full flow.

      Flow Coating
      The art of flow coating involves application of multiple layers of a quality clear coat in multiple clearing sessions to achieve a gloss and depth unseen by other techniques. The process begins with the normal application of a base coat clear coat finish where a base coat is applied then the clear coat is applied shortly thereafter. This is where the painting aspect of 99% of all paint jobs ends. However, since we want to create a top 1% type finish, we?re going beyond this step for our custom paint job. Next we will allow the clear coat to cure for at least 24 hours then carefully sand with a fine grit sand paper (P600 is my favorite). I personally like to use a DA with a soft back bad here because we absolutely want to avoid breaking through our clear at any point. You could also wet sand or block sand by hand if you are a really up for some punishment.
      See Flow Coating, Flow Coating GunMan


      Touch-up
      I masked the area surrounding the scratches and sanded it carefully to hit surfacer and setup SPG100 to spray clean mist with fan width of ~10mm actually material delivered on panel would probably be 3-4mm. I had to order paint again, and dealer asked me what are you doing, you bought so much base-coat someone would have painted a bus . Touched up base-coat scratch and cleared it as well, left it to dry for a day. It turned out good merged well with rest of the car.


      Clear Sand
      Wet sanded the clear flat with P1200 (whole car except roof), it was not much work(relatively) since all I had to was add cross hatch with block sander. Masked the engine bay etc for flow coating.

      Sanded Flat
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      Clearing
      Decided take a plunge and belt clear GunMan way that is 'dripping wet', keeping hood flat, earlier I sprayed it hung on the wall. Process is, spray normal first coat and belt 2-3 thick wet coat after that.

      GuMan's video below, Note: Read comments from experienced painters and make your call, it is run magnet when doing on vertical panels.



      Hood Smashed who want's polish

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      Fender

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      Left & Right

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      If it Ain't Broke...Break It! Make It Better!

    10. #100
       
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      Final Finish

      Runs
      I had couple of runs while flow coating, when shooting dripping wet you need to have good concentration. More difficult if you are planning to shoot whole car in one sitting. I choose to shoot from bottom to top, so that clear is built in layers. I lost concentration and missed a stripe below the door handle and got run, runs below that were gift for trying to hotfix it . If you get a run in a panel just belt one more coat to be on safer side while sanding to remove the run.

      Removing Runs
      I masked the run areas with masking tape and used Cromax 710R as filler to sand. I used P1200 instead of P400/P600 so that not loose much clear coat while removing runs. Always do cross sanding whatever be the case wet/dry for surface-r/clear to have flat and even sanded surface.

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      Below is GunMan's video on removing runs, You need to be little more careful than this though




      Finishing Plan
      The achieved orange peal was good so planned not to flat sand at all and just do Trizact 3000, compounding for body & cladding and nothing at all for bumpers. 3M 51052 does really good job @ compounding but leaves hologram all over (visible with inspection light), so you will have to polish with 3M 50383, but due to lack of time and amount of work, I planned to skip it and do it at later stage. There was pending stuff like headlight trim, side mirrors and wiper spray nozzle to re-finish, which I completed after compounding.

      Refinished Wiper Nozzle
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      If it Ain't Broke...Break It! Make It Better!

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