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    Thread: Shooting Fireworks

    1. #1

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      WOODSNAKE's Avatar
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      Shooting Fireworks

      A subdued Diwali just went by with less fireworks in the sky, due to pollutions concerns and
      mostly due to high prices and also less production from Sivakasi.

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      We had a forced  ban on bursting firecrackers on the terrace in my apartment, due to damage to tarrace flooring and there would be no control by peoples, once they start bursting. So I had no opportunity to shoot fireworks in the sky. Also the balcony has grill for security , which obstructs clear view.

      I did click few firecrakers on the road, in manual mode and would like to present a tutorial (even though its later, but not late for coming celebrations).

      TUTORIALS
      ref: http://www.nyip.com/ezine/holidays/firewks.html


      Narayana
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    2. #2

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      I feel the shutter speed should have been 2 to 3 seconds instead of 1/50. This demands use of a tripod or a steady base to keep your camera steady.

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      Quote Originally Posted by Beasta1.6S View Post
      2 to 3 seconds
      Some of these flower pot itself last only that much .. he he
      50 shutter speed looks good to me. liked the 3rd one which is out of focus for the sparkling cracker but it conveys the message !

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      I set the camera on manual mode and reduced the shutter speed so the background became dark on the LCD screen (live View- no view finder). I wanted dark background, so that the light from Flower pot can be captured with better contrast. Also 1/125 would help me shoot faster as Shyam had indicated the flowerpot does not last long. Shot is handheld as the shutter speed is 1/125 and handshake would not matter as the NEX5 kit lens has built-in optical image stabilization or OSS, and a focus motor inside similar to SSM.
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      "Success is like your own shadow, if u try to catch then u will never succeed, ignore it and walk in your own way....it will follow u.."

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      Arey it doesn't matter if it lasts longer or not, in two seconds you can cover the whole of its "marvel" with smooths trails.
      Or even better, set it to 5 seconds, but yes, you didn't have a tripod so I give it to you.

    6. #6

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      Quote Originally Posted by Beasta1.6S View Post
      set it to 5 seconds
      True, but since 'object' is super bright it will often lead to overexposed pics. Not sure how much the very high apertures will help though. Anybody got examples?

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      Quote Originally Posted by WOODSNAKE View Post
      I set the camera on manual mode and reduced the shutter speed so the background became dark on the LCD screen (live View- no view finder). I wanted dark background, so that the light from Flower pot can be captured with better contrast. Also 1/125 would help me shoot faster as Shyam had indicated the flowerpot does not last long. Shot is handheld as the shutter speed is 1/125 and handshake would not matter as the NEX5 kit lens has built-in optical image stabilization or OSS, and a focus motor inside similar to SSM.
      Yes, maybe the OIS is present , but that accounts for minute movements and cannot compensate for stability for an exposure of more than 30 second for instance. Infact the way to shoot fireworks is to switch off IS , prefocus the camera to the desired focal length , use a stable support [tripod, tabletop, wall] and try to use remote triggering if you can or else use the 2 sec timer . In a lot of scenarios , mainly in low light photograhy.. it is recommended to turn off IS , as IS negatively affects the sharpness of the image, especially if you able to give the camera a stable base .

      The third image is blurred because ur camera was hunting for focus , prefocussing , kills this time lag.

      The tutorial you have shared is ok but it seems you skipped the Aperture part , ur exif shows that you were shooting at f3.5, f4., f5.6 , this is too wide open for you requirement IMHO, the ideal f numbers with respect to the ISO settings are listed on the link you shared yourself .Quoting them for your reference , and in tmost firework pictures i have seen the f numbers have never been less than f10

      ISO SETTING APERTURE RANGE
      ISO 100 ƒ/8 to 16
      ISO 200 ƒ/11 to 22
      ISO 400 ƒ/16 to 22



      Quote Originally Posted by Venom_Rider View Post
      True, but since 'object' is super bright it will often lead to overexposed pics. Not sure how much the very high apertures will help though. Anybody got examples?
      F numbers from the tutorial listed above for ease of reference...

    8. #8

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      Quote Originally Posted by HELLSTAR View Post
      Yes, maybe the OIS is present , but that accounts for minute movements and cannot compensate for stability for an exposure of more than 30 second for instance. Infact the way to shoot fireworks is to switch off IS , prefocus the camera to the desired focal length , use a stable support [tripod, tabletop, wall] and try to use remote triggering if you can or else use the 2 sec timer . In a lot of scenarios , mainly in low light photograhy.. it is recommended to turn off IS , as IS negatively affects the sharpness of the image, especially if you able to give the camera a stable base .

      The third image is blurred because ur camera was hunting for focus , prefocussing , kills this time lag.

      The tutorial you have shared is ok but it seems you skipped the Aperture part , ur exif shows that you were shooting at f3.5, f4., f5.6 , this is too wide open for you requirement IMHO, the ideal f numbers with respect to the ISO settings are listed on the link you shared yourself .Quoting them for your reference , and in tmost firework pictures i have seen the f numbers have never been less than f10

      ISO SETTING APERTURE RANGE
      ISO 100 /8 to 16
      ISO 200 /11 to 22
      ISO 400 /16 to 22





      F numbers from the tutorial listed above for ease of reference...
      Thanks Hellstar. I did not reduce the aperture, but increased the shutter speed to have the same effect (reduction in light) at ISO 200, which is the lowest setting (ISO)on NEX5. This can be seen with darkening of LCD panel.

      Nevertheless, would follow your tuts once I have to shoot fireworks in the sky and I have bought a tripod. Till then its my humble hand which need to be used for shooting.

      Quote Originally Posted by Venom_Rider View Post
      True, but since 'object' is super bright it will often lead to overexposed pics. Not sure how much the very high apertures will help though. Anybody got examples?
      High aperture means lower aperture opening or lower amount of light entering the camera.

      The amount of light onto your sensor can be controlled either by Shutter Speed or Aperture.

      Shutter speed- in seconds- you are gathering light for a longer period of time & vice versa
      Aperture - small f numbers - larger opening or large amount of light gathering capability and vice versa.

      Its confusing in the beggining.

      f1 to f4 - small aperture number , more light gathering
      f16-f30 - large aperture number, less light gathering

      1/100 to 1/4000 or 100 to 4000 on dial or menu- fast shutter speed - faster closing of shutter - less light gathering
      2 secs to bulb - slow shutter speed - slow closing of shutter- more light gathering

      Narayana
      Last edited by camchennai; 2nd Nov 2011 at 00:51. Reason: Merging back to back posts
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    9. #9

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      WOODSNAKE : I understand the concept of aperture, shutter speed etc., quite well, thanks

      My point however was that 2-5 sec exposure for shooting fireworks at short range (like flowerpots) will certainly have trails but most other parts of the frame will be overexposed, right?

    10. #10

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      Quote Originally Posted by Venom_Rider View Post
      WOODSNAKE : I understand the concept of aperture, shutter speed etc., quite well, thanks

      My point however was that 2-5 sec exposure for shooting fireworks at short range (like flowerpots) will certainly have trails but most other parts of the frame will be overexposed, right?
      OOPS !! Training the trainer / expert.

      Yes, it could have trails. Overexposure can be avoided to certain extent by dialing a negative Ev (-2.0) and lower ISO. I have not tried it, but have dialed in -2.0 Ev, for bright objects.

      Some practical examples:

      Overexposed, 1.3 s, f5.6, 55 mm
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      1/50s, f5.6, 55 mm
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      1/2s, f3.5, 18 mm
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      1/125s, f3.5, 18mm
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      1/100s, f4.5. 31mm
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      1.3s, f5.6,55mm
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      1/50s,f5.6,55mm
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      Dzire Vdi 2010
      Matiz SD 2000
      TVS Streak 2009
      Kawasaki 4S 1995

      "Success is like your own shadow, if u try to catch then u will never succeed, ignore it and walk in your own way....it will follow u.."

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